A Little More Structure, A Little Less Traditional

This slide is a mix from the gray collection, and the beige cotton khadi jamawar this piece is the one I want to start with. Every fabric has its own shine and elegance, but khadi has always been my favorite_ maybe because the way it's made feels more natural, more honest. This one was beige with a gold design woven right into it. For the shirt I went Western-style: two layers up front, an inner satin shirt under a long coat-style outer piece, finished with a maroon velvet half-band collar and cuffs. With its original shawl it was one of my favorites, most elegant pieces.

The gray pieces were part of a semi-formal collection. The middle one has a pleated neckline with an embellished motif __ sequins, sitara, tilla and dabka work__ edged along the dupatta, sleeves and hem. The bottom one has sitara & sequins sprayed (we used to call it "chutta") along the yoke, open pleated cuffs and a double-layered skirt. The outer layer in sheer georgette, cut a bit higher and split at the center, edged at the bottom.

The open pleated cuff detail actually followed me, I found a blazer at Macy's about four years ago with almost the exact same cuff, and I still get compliments on it. I guess that meant my design instinct was worth something.

Looking back, this whole collection reminds me I was doing exactly I'm best at __ going against the flow. The owner of that fashion house was a religious cleric mainly focused on shalwar qameez for men, and here I was, sneaking Western elements into desi clothing. Good thing I got away with it.

Guess rule-breaking looks good on me.